The Month in Mood Board - soaking up culture, dirty laundry & granny shoes

So, school’s almost out for summer. We’re over half way through the year. And it’s time to take a breather and survey what we’ve sown so far this year. Is 2017 going to be a bumper harvest!? We’ll see.

But, while I mulled that over, I saw, watched, listened to, and wondered about these things ...

Why don’t you cover a big cork bulletin board in bright pink felt, banded with bamboo, and pin with coloured thumb-tacks all your various enthusiasms as your life varies from week to week?
— Diana Vreeland
Blog Pin Board July

A ballet inspired by Virginia Woolf’s words is on TV

ROH Resident (not evil) Choreographer Wayne McGregor says Woolf:

… loved dance and music. She wanted to write as if she were writing music and choreographing dance.

Woolf Works is a triptych inspired by three landmark works: Mrs Dalloway, Orlando, The Waves. Interwoven with elements of Woolf’s life and words, via letters, essays, diaries.

We voyage through relationships, then and now, with ghostly gossamer-clad ballerinas - and a nymphette sporting a glittering helmet of Marcel-waved hair.

Through three centuries of leotard-smooth androgyny. Punctuated by Elizabethan gender-bending bodices and bloomers - some in a 24 carat-bright, bold gold.

To the inevitable stream (well ocean) of consciousness where Woolf’s last words and abstract-clad dancers intermingle with the relentless waves.

Hokusai at the British Museum

Speaking of Waves THE The Great Wave was the pivotal piece at a BM exhibition. And it turns out there are three little fishing boats in it - some old chap in the snaking exhibition viewing queue pointed that out.

What’s more it’s actually about Mount Fuji. One of a 30-something series, in fact. While tsunamis may symbolise the awe-inspiring power of nature to the west in Japan Mount Fuji and its almighty immortality was their touchstone.

And, it was Hokusai’s prolific career and quest for artistic longevity explored here. He believed things could only get better: at 100 or 110 who knew what wonders he could produce?!

Which is a rather refreshing way to go about things. I don’t know about you but when I hadn’t published a book by age 9 like Jayne Fisher, author of The Garden Gang series, I thought I was all washed up...

Raining? Footsteps in the Fog might cheer you up...

There is nothing better, in my opinion, than a rainy afternoon with a black & white movie. Especially one like Footsteps in the Fog (1955) starring Stewart Granger - dashing or rakish are usually his epithets -  and his wife Jean - the glowering, glowing Estella from David Lean’s Great Expectations - Simmons.

Footsteps is what many online reviewers call a ‘florid Edwardian thriller’ by which they mean - OTT on the drama and frills and fog I guess. He’s a murderous master of the house (is there a term for a black widower?) with marriage to an heiress on his mind.

She’s a maid determined to claw her way up the Edwardian household career ladder by way of a bit of blackmail. And, thus it winds up the best-laid plans of mice and men can be undermined by a maid and a rat...

Kathleen Turner talked femme fatales - huskily

Speaking of wily women Miss Turner - who shot to fame in Body Heat and did a turn as Jessica “I’m not bad, I’m just drawn that way” Rabbit - talked Femme Fatales on R4.

The archetype of the femme fatale has inhabited the collective imagination since we’ve had an imagination. Lust and ambition incarnate, her story is a neon-lit warning: this is what happens when girls go off society’s prescriptive rails.

And in post-WWII American dreamers wanted to be feeling: upbeat, sunny, hopeful, says one interviewee. The poster girl: Doris Day. The antithesis to 40s film noir and its shadowy, ‘hopelessly pessimistic’ femme fatales.

Of course, this black and white thinking, where women is concerned, is fairytale-esque. It suited the 40s narrative. Now, women’s stories are more complex. Enter: David Lynch’s Mulholland Drive. What critic Roger Ebert calls:

[A] surrealist dreamscape in the form of a Hollywood film noir.

Starring a perky blonde ingenue (Betty) and a mysterious brunette (Rita) who start the film as clear cut archetypes, but end in confusion:

Rita (an amnesiac who lifted the name from a “Gilda” poster) wonders if she’s really Diane Selwyn, a name from a waitress’ name tag.

Femme fatale classics: Double Indemnity, Gilda, The Postman Always Rings Twice.

Twenty One (not that one) opens in Southend

The Forum’s Focal Point Gallery (FPG) opened a “...new cultural venue on Southend’s famous seafront” this month. Twenty One is to be an “alternative venue for healthy food, art and events”.

The launch exhibition 100% Southend features over 110 artworks - 2 from the SEVEN collective - on which FPG says:

100% Southend is a continuation of FPG’s 2014 project, which explored categorisations of how people engage with culture. The exhibition will use the traditional page format of A4 to bring together a diverse range of 2D works from both established and emerging artists across the SS postcodes to launch Twenty One as a venue for the town’s cultural community.

Vogue’s outgoing Fash. Ed got real

Fashion can chew you up and spit you out,

Lucinda Chambers told Vestoj (the “platform for critical thinking on fashion”).

Anyone who’s seen Zoolander or Ab Fab or The Devil Wears Prada knows that, right?

Fashion’s built on stories - unlikely adventures featuring toweringly successful (and hanger-thin) people posture in fantasy fashion - spun and proffered like a gloved princess hand, never to be soiled.

And Lucinda - Vogue employee for over thirty years - was ‘mucking’ hers up according to a friend by airing her dirty laundry (i.e. that she was fired).

You’re not allowed to fail in fashion – especially in this age of social media, when everything is about leading a successful, amazing life. … But why can’t we celebrate failure? After all, it helps us grow and develop...

she said.

If you want good results, you have to support people,

She went on, deploring how today’s business of fashion is making designers work ever faster and in greater quantities. Expecting golden eggs, but winding up, more often than not, with an unappetising scramble.

But fashion is an alchemy...

she says of the subtle and unquantifiable nature of imagination made manifest.  An alchemy she believes should be both aspirational AND useful. Watch Lucinda’s space.

 

Finding comfort (and getting curious) in granny shoes

Thinking of form and function I’ve been having trouble with shoes.

I used to wear those ballet slippers favoured by patron saint of effortless elegance Audrey Hepburn. Until I got shin splints. Later I hurt my foot. And finding shoes which didn’t aggravate became my mission impossible.

Turns out even the most apparently benign designs can bite the foot that fills them. Yep, where shoes are concerned it’s got personal.

In the sweltering heat of early summer I desperately eBayed ‘comfort shoes’.  And wound up with an orthopaedic pair of sandals.  The kind you see in specialist shop windows. You know, the ones with the zip up tartan slippers.

To me they combine retro appeal with wearability. In short: I can do my 10,000 plus steps a day, retain a sense of my personal aesthetic, and my body lives to tell the tale. Why, I have to ask, are so many shoes just NOT made for walking?

Pin Board September '16 - the month in mood board

September, with it's back to school mood, came and went in a flash of misty-ness. Turns out Misty the comic for girls is returning from the publication grave; while the Grain Chimney disappeared from the Estuary skyline on a frustratingly misty morning in a 'puff of smoke'.

The Estuary itself became the inspiration for an arts festival and the Vogue centenary celebrations marked by the NPG at the beginning of the year were revisited in a revealing documentary. I rewatched The 39 Steps and wondered what happened to Margaret in my own Wide Sargasso Sea moment. Plus, I attended the first in a series of talks held at Tracey Neuls’s shoe store-meets-schoolroom.

Why don’t you cover a big cork bulletin board in bright pink felt, banded with bamboo, and pin with coloured thumb-tacks all your various enthusiasms as your life varies from week to week?
— Diana Vreeland
September  pinboard mood board

Misty Lives! - '80s horror comic for girls returns

My mum used to buy me Misty annuals from the market. I loved the covers and their promise of gothic glamour, ghosts and age-appropriate gore. Pat Mills (of 2000AD fame) took the title from the Clint Eastwood film Play Misty For Me; while his other inspirations were Carrie and Audrey Rose.

Last Moments -  an Estuary landmark is blown up 

Misty was also the outlook the day the tallest concrete structure to be demolished in Britain came tumbling down. One moment the 801 foot tall (244 metres) Grain Chimney was veiled in mist the next it was a languorous trail of dust. An eerie silence. Boom. Bewildered birds rose from the grey sea.

Estuary 2016 - a 16 day event inspired by the Essex / Kent coastline

Points of Departure featured 28 contemporary artists at the paint-peeling, pleather-furnished Tilbury Cruise Terminal. We watched John Akomfrah’s Mnemosyne a film fusing: Greek myth, Windrush newsreels and the bleak midwinter; and listened to a beautifully compelling audio, Waterborne, describing the decomposition of our drowned bodies while we contemplated the water; and men piloting boats waved at us...

Rebelliousness & Conformity - a lesson in standing up & out

London Design Festival heralded a series of talks held at the Marylebone Tracey Neuls store. Attendees sat at school desks, between suspended shoes, to hear Caroline McHugh, self-described “Glaswegian, Buddhist cult leader” (in style), TED speaker and Chief Emeritus of Idology, talk to Tracey about individuality and what a well designed shoe can really do for you.

The 39 Steps - rewatching Hitchcock’s classic

Richard Hannay, the 'Hitchcockian hero' caught in a web of intrigue and handcuffed to a furious blonde, has a brief interlude with a Scottish crofter’s young wife with a poignant yearning for ‘adventure’ she’ll never have: “Well, is it true that all the ladies paint their toenails?” she asks of London life.

Vogue Doc - celebrating 100 years of the British style bible

Brogue, as it was known, was established due WWI shipping restrictions and paper shortages. Documenting the lead up to the centenary celebrations / issues we got a sneak peek into UK Vogue life. The best bit? When Fashion Editor Lucinda Chambers compared her ‘Tigger’ working style to that of editor Alexandra Shulman’s ‘Eeyore’ - excellent.